I am admiring the 15th-century Cathedral of St James in Sibenik with my guide, Ante Caric, when a wedding party bursts out. Waving Croatian flags they form a boisterous circle as they begin to sing and dance.
By Kieran Meeke THE TIMES
After an entertaining hour already spent with Caric, I am not surprised at his comment: “In Croatia we start drinking before the wedding, not after.”
With the singing still echoing in the plaza around us, Caric points out that the Unesco-listed cathedral is a mix of gothic and Renaissance styles. “It’s built of interlocking stone blocks, with no mortar or bricks, like a giant Lego set,” he says. “The 71 sculpted heads you see outside are all of ordinary townspeople — most unusual for the time.”
From the cathedral we walk through the red-tiled old town of Sibenik. It is full of handsome public structures built on the wealth of the region’s salt trade. High above is the imposing St Michael’s Fortress and I spot a museum dedicated to the dalmatian dog breed.
Passing a Benedictine nunnery, Caric questions the nuns’ Christian compassion at having once kept “bunnies” for food, then reels off their recipe for rabbit stewed in red wine. And so we repair to the Gradska Vijecnica restaurant for my first taste of local cuisine. A Croatian friend has already told me: “On the coast it’s like Italian cuisine but not as good. Inland it’s like Austrian cuisine but not as good.” After sampling a classic black risotto I quickly realise that quip is also self-effacing Croatian humour. Here on the Dalmatian coast there’s plenty of fresh seafood and this is a delightful showcase for it. Subtle, with a mild saltiness, the risotto has tiny mussels with a perfect bite. It is beautifully balanced (mains from £19; sibenik.hr).
I’m in Sibenik as part of a week-long cruise aboard the elegant wooden gulet Allure, with classic lines, tall rigging and accommodation for 14 in 7 en-suite cabins. Of the thousand or so islands off Croatia, 89 are scattered here in the Kornati archipelago. The coast and islands are formed of gritty karst, shaped into low hills with a covering of fragrant shrubs and small pine trees.
These sheltered waters are a paradise for boating. In 1936 King Edward VIII came sailing here with the American divorcee Wallace Simpson. The ensuing scandal led directly to his abdication, but also helped to put Croatia on the tourism map.
What you need to know
- How to get there Fly to Split, from where it’s a scenic one-hour drive north along the Croatian coast to Sibenik
- What to pack There are no shoes allowed aboard the gulet; dress is casual and storage is limited, so pack light and leave the hard suitcase at home
- Insider tip If you love a classic wooden boat, the Betina Museum of Wooden Shipbuilding on Murter Island, part of Allure’s itinerary, has two-century-old boats in the nearby harbour that are as photogenic as they are historic (mbdb.hr)
The most important crew member is the chef
My regular daily life soon seems as distant as that golden interwar era. I’m ensconced every night in the boat’s gleaming teak interior. The four-person crew — the most important member of which is the chef, Tomislav Zaja — look after their passengers with great care. From a tiny galley Zaja produces meals that would flatter a fancy restaurant.
Guests can sunbathe on the boat’s deck / photo
Over the next few days of island-hopping I enjoy plenty of seafood and Dalmatian specialities, such as the tagine-like peka and pasticada (slow-cooked veal) with gnocchi. A constant on the table is the bread — rustic, often sourdough, it’s great for soaking up rich, aromatic sauces. More
