The city of Split is Dalmatia at its sexiest: best shopping, best nightlife, best football team (Hajduk Split), best-looking locals, arguably its best history too.
Dubrovnik’s streetscape is more manicured, but Split is arguably more fascinating. It is a product of nearly 2,000 years of being lived in, from the Unesco-listed palace of Roman emperor Diocletian at the old town’s core to alleys constructed under Venetian rule. Here they’re just buildings — people think nothing of shoving a B&B between 3rd-century walls or a bar in a Renaissance palace.
When I first visited in 2004 there were few old-town hotels. Now, the place is stuffed with them — mostly “heritage hotels” with stone walls and faux antiques; lovely for atmosphere but usually overpriced for facilities (and size) in peak summer (when the old town is pedestrianised and noisy), so visit in shoulder seasons if you can.
Yet the joy of visiting Split is that it was a beach resort before everyone obsessed about its history. Wander along the coast and you’ll find sleek, modern resorts, all making use of that fantastic shoreline and those sparkling Adriatic beaches, enticing you to stay awhile.
Here’s our pick of the best hotels in Split.
1. AC Hotel, Lovret
You’re in the tallest building in Croatia here, the futuristic, 135m Dalmatia Tower. Several floors are occupied by this long-awaited stay from Marriott: a chic restaurant and bar claim the first floor, there’s a spa and pool walled by glass on the 17th, and between them are 214 rooms.
Similarly walled by glass, the rooms have awesome views over the city to the sea — the main reason to book, notwithstanding crisp pared-back looks favoured by its international business clientele. Curved corner rooms are especially impressive. The catch is the location, 20 minutes’ walk from the centre; on the plus side, it’s good value and there’s plenty of parking.
2. Heritage Hotel Fermai, Old Town
Fancy heritage without the faux antiques? This is the choice. What appears to be a sombre 1920s building five minutes’ walk north of the old town is actually a rather elegant stay that opened in 2021 as a boutique property within the Accor chain. Art nouveau glamour is the tone of its 35 rooms, all with high ceilings, original mouldings on walls and designer lights to stop things becoming stuffy.
Standards are compact, but not unacceptably so, and bathrooms are good, with Molton Brown smellies. Public areas are excellent, with smiley staff. Good value out of season, it offers parking, so is a terrific option if you’re coming with a car. More
